.
We're just back from walking the TMB August 22 to Sept 1, exactly as in the
excellent Cicerone guide, Tour of Mont Blanc. We used a lot of your
information, advice, check lists etc and found them invaluable.
Unlike you, we had wonderful weather - 1 hour's rain each on the first and
last days, and clear, sunny weather the other 9 days, but fortunately not
too hot. It's such a shame you missed out on the fabulous views on the days
you had rain, especially on the higher cols. It went so well that we did
many of the alternatives and extras - the Mont de la Saxe option on stage 5
to Rif Bonatti (hard and long); the high route variant from La Peule to La
Fouly on stage 6 (though not easy to find the start due to new buildings at
the farm); the alternative stage 8 via Fenetre d'Arpete (very hard
underfoot); the full route on stage 9 via Aiguille des Posettes; the Lac
Blanc option on stage 10.
We are 67 and 68, and had never walked with full packs before, though we do
walk regularly in the Lake District. We weren't at all confident of our
ability to do the trek and had various alternatives ready, just in case. So
we were delighted with how well we did and with no rest days - it seemed
crazy not to keep walking as long as the good weather continued. Another
time we'd definitely carry lighter packs, mainly by investing in expensive
but lightweight waterproofs. Of course we carried all the bad-weather gear
and didn't wear it, but that was unavoidable. Unlike you, we didn't walk
through any snow, but about 2 feet had fallen over the Col du Bonhomme 2
weeks before. We certainly wouldn't have coped as well if the weather hadn't
favoured us.
The company en route was excellent, the food superb. We stayed in most of
your recommended lodgings except the first (we stayed in the Refuge CAF on
the edge of Les Contamines - very welcoming and pleasant) and the last (we
headed straight back to Les Houches and stayed at Chalet-Refuge Michel Fagot
right in the centre - no catering but excellent kitchen and supermarket
nearby) and in La Fouly (stayed in Gite Les Girolles, welcoming but rather
institutional and almost empty, but there seemed to be complaints about all
accomm in La Fouly). We found all the accommodation as you described it,
with the meal at Champex en Haut still 6 courses plus aperitif - excellent
value, and the auberge at Tre le Champ still atmospheric but claustrophobic,
but we did at least have a small internal window. We booked ahead each day,
usually asking the refuge or tourist office to do it for us, and had no
problems. Ask for room 2 in the Venezia in Courmayeur, a double with a giant
roof terrace above the dining-room with great views and perfect for drying
clothes, drinks and picnics.
The only minor problem we had was with money. You said there was no ATM in
La Fouly. In fact there's none in La Fouly or Champex or Trient ie none at
all on the route through Switzerland. Amazing for the land of bankers. We
hadn't taken the implication of this on board, assuming we'd be able to take
out more money en route. So we paid once with Euros and twice with credit
cards. We should have taken out enough money in Courmayeur to last us till
back in France. You can't even change money in La Fouly, though the tourist
office will in Champex. Everyone accepts euros, but at their own rate of
exchange. The supermarket has now closed in Champex, so the only shop now is
just a bakery with very few provisions. We ended up carrying a lot of food
for lunches, as we were permanently hungry.
The old frontier post on the way down from the Col du Seigne is now open as
a very nice exhibition and info centre, with a room as a refuge for walkers.
An extra bonus for us was to be there for the Ultra-Trail marathon, the last
weekend in August. This was brilliant and to be highly recommended. It
doesn't affect accomm along the route, as they don't stop(!), except for
Chamonix, which was packed out. There are 3 races, the 48 hour main race,
doing very much te same route as us, without the higher options, and won
this year in 20 hours 58 minutes!!! Also a half race,
Courmayeur-Champex-Chamonix. And for the first time this year an extra-long
race, 220 kms and almost twice the height, 17000m, for groups of 3 runners.
The checkpoint for this was the auberge in Champex en Haut, and the first
team arrived at 3am for 3 hours sleep in our dormitory, the second team was
there at breakfast, and the third toiled up the Fenetre with us, one limping
badly. It was fascinating to see all the arrangements for the runners, each
village having lots of special events, and sympathise with them toiling up
to La Flegere on their last lap.
Finally, we went by train and highly recommend the overnight from Paris to
St Gervais - we had couchettes in a 6-berth cabin, slept well, got the next
train from St Gervais to Les Houches and had started walking by 10am. The
couchettes are amazingly cheap if booked in advance, well under £40. It cost
us £80 each single from Lancaster to Les Houches. We are devotees of train
travel, and use the brilliant 'man in seat 61' website for info on trains
and bookings.
Many thanks for all your useful advice. We've enjoyed looking again at your
diary - brings back happy memories.
